On April 3rd, 2024, the Finger Lakes Wine Alliance gathered a group of member wineries for a blind tasting and discussion about the 2023 vintage. Each was asked to bring three samples (Riesling, Chardonnay, and Cabernet Franc) from the bottle, barrel, or tank.
The event was produced by Kyle Anne Pallischeck and Sarah Tuttle of the Finger Lakes Wine Alliance and sponsored by Vance Metal. Retired winemaker and consultant Peter Bell led an illuminating conversation with the group, which included regional vineyardists, winemakers, and researchers. From the discussion and annual reporting from Cornell Cooperative Extension, local writer and educator Maiah Johnson Dunn generated the following vintage report.
Some will call 2023 a standard vintage for Finger Lakes wines. They’ll note the bright, fresh offerings with delicious fruit notes and the hallmark cool climate acidity. But they won’t note the growing season itself, which was anything but ordinary.
2023 kept the Finger Lakes on its collective toes, much like years of recent memory.
In the beginning, a sprint of warm days in early spring led to an early bud break–in some locations by 15 days. Crops progressed nicely but the region held its breath. This is Upstate New York and the weather can be unpredictable.
Temperature fluctuations from May 17 – 18, 2023. Credit: Cornell Cooperative Extension.
Overnight on May 18th, a collective fear came to fruition with a late-season frost. In some locations, record-breaking low temperatures sat on vineyards for up to six hours. The freeze brought varying levels of damage across the state. In the Finger Lakes, some growers were lucky to see no impact while others suffered 100% loss.
Notable rainfall brought nearly three times the average in April, June, and July. Despite the rains and humidity, disease pressure was low across the board. In some areas, wildlife posed a larger threat–busting through netting to enjoy the sweet fruit.
By September, rains cleared in time for a burst of ripening that solidified the season’s success.
2023 Rainfall. Credit: Cornell Cooperative Extension.
In June, over 100 wildfires in Quebec, Canada brought smoke and cloud cover to the Finger Lakes, impacting the monthly growing degree days. Some pulled leaves to counterbalance the smog and increase sun exposure only to discover the next unprecedented weather event: sunburned grapes.
2023 also marks the inaugural vintage bearing the New York Sustainable Winegrowing Trustmark. The official certification highlights growers focused on environmental, societal, and economic sustainability–a true feat to be celebrated after such a grueling year.
Monthly growing degree days. Credit: Cornell Cooperative Extension.
Despite some uneven ripening within the grape clusters, neither smoke nor sun has impacted the flavors in the wine. The Rieslings and Chardonnays are beautifully balanced and complex. Both fruit-forward with a refreshing electric acidity perfect for pairing with food.
For the second year in a row, the Cabernet Francs are exceptional. From crushable sippers to full-bodied dinner companions, these wines are striking in color and flavor.
Though it certainly wasn’t “standard”, 2023 was a welcome reminder that responding to vintage variation is what the region does best. The more challenging the season, the more ingenuity seen in the vineyards and cellar. The result has proven to be nuanced, beautiful wines full of Finger Lakes heart.
Thank you to our generous sponsor, Vance Metal, for supporting the 2023 Vintage Report.
