On April 5, 2023, the Finger Lakes Wine Alliance gathered a group of winemakers, vineyard managers, and owners of member wineries to taste and discuss wines from the 2022 vintage. Each was asked to bring three samples: a riesling, cabernet franc, and a wild card (dry rosé was strongly encouraged) from a bottle, barrel, or tank. The event was led by retired winemaker Peter Bell. The tasting and subsequent conversation were exciting, especially given the difficulties of a changing climate.
Local writer and educator Maiah Johnson Dunn joined the tasting, resulting in the 2022 Vintage report below. The detail is generated through conversations with vineyardists and winemakers, and from Cornell Cooperative Extension reports.
The test of vintage variation is one that the Finger Lakes tackles head-on. This means producing the best out of what nature provides, good or otherwise – something the region excels in.
For many, the whiplash of the last two years has remained fresh. 2020 provided pristine weather with hot, dry growing conditions. What followed was humidity and a deluge of rains throughout 2021.
2022 was a blend of the best and worst of the last two years. It was also a reminder of the incredible skill and perseverance exhibited by Finger Lakes growers and producers crafting delicious wines in challenging seasons.
The growing season was short. Short on crop thanks to a mild winter marked by extreme temperature variations. The coldest days led to damage in the vineyards. It was also short on time. A warm and dry spring carried through into summer. Diurnal variation (hot days balanced with cool nights) allowed for the retention of a fresh acidity within the grapes.
Though the weather provided an optimistic start to the season, a vine needs sunshine, warmth, nutrients, and water to thrive. A dry late spring, as we had in 2022, can be detrimental to the vine’s vigor.
Early-ripening grapes benefited from heightened fruit flavors in this precocious growing season. Grapes seemed ripe but scarce, with small berries and lower yields across the board.
Hurricane season was lively and brought the rainy remnants of tropical storms to the Finger Lakes. The mid-August humidity and rains continued through September, which is typically the final stretch for ripening fruit.
Credit: Cornell Cooperative Extension
Many producers decided to pick grapes early to avoid any potential rot or loss of flavor in their smaller, more coveted crops. Perhaps some were still scarred from the rains and disease pressure of the previous year’s unforgiving harvest. As such, they also found themselves with extra time in the fall thanks to an early pick.
It turns out disease pressure was actually relatively low in 2022. October was strikingly dry, with the lowest monthly rainfall total on record in 21 years (.42”). Those able to let their grapes hang on the vines another month enjoyed the luxury of time to further concentrate flavor.
2022 is not short on quality despite the erratic, unpredictable weather.
A strong backbone of acidity showed in the Rieslings especially. The wines are balanced by fruit, and in some cases, residual sugar is left behind after fermentation. The Rosés were light-bodied and refreshing. And both demonstrated a range of moderate to fully-developed fruit flavors driven by vineyard location and harvest date.
Though many were in tank at the time of this report, the Cabernet Franc offerings were particularly captivating–full of vibrant color, energy, and body. Any additional hang time through October shows, with red cherries and strawberries are already singing.
While 2022 seems reflective of a great year for Cabernet Franc, all three wines were a compelling glimpse at the good that can be derived from stress.