November 28, 2018
There are three interrelated factors to consider in assessing a vintage. The weather in terms of heat units (growing degree days or GDD) & rainfall (inches); vineyard operations that produce the grapes and, winery operations that produce the wines. Vineyard operations are performed in response to vine and grape growing conditions and winery operations in response to resulting grape characteristics. In 2018 the weather – vineyard/grape – winery/wine triad were very tightly connected for the vintage and required timely actions and agility on the part of vineyard managers and winemakers. Responsiveness paid big dividends as shown in the resulting wines now in tank and barrel.
Overall, the 2018 vintage was 16% warmer (2882 GDD) than the long-term average (LTA). Rainfall at 24.4 in. was slightly (5%) above the LTA. That data does not come close to telling the story of 2018.
The ripening period from August through October paints a more accurate picture. GDD were 21% above LTA and rainfall 38% above GDD. Mid-August and October were especially wet. In other words, warm and wet giving rise to disease pressure and limited ripening at the very end of the vintage.
In general, the 2017 vintage provided growers and winemakers with a long window within which to make harvest decisions. In contrast, 2018 required vigilance to maintain vineyard hygiene, sharp eyes on fruit condition and rapid response within a relatively narrow harvest window. Timing and selection were the keys to success as most of the 130+ wineries in the FLX have proven.
2018 provided a text book demonstration of winemaking in the vineyard. For example, winegrowers adopted a two-pronged approach of harvesting before the onset of botrytis and dropping undesirable grapes in the vineyard – those not sufficiently ripe and those below acceptable quality – before conducting harvest operations. On the crush pad, winemakers instituted selection processes to ensure clean fruit for fermentations. 2018 was a vintage primarily dictated by quality issues as opposed to ripeness, by acting quickly and not waiting.
Challenging weather most certainly entails a challenging vintage. With the level of vineyard management care and winemaking expertise now practiced in the FLX – a challenging vintage can yield solid wines with typical FLX characteristics as is the case for 2018.
Overall, most varieties were harvested within ripeness parameters and noting the tight selection being practiced, went into clean fermentations. Timing was earlier and shorter and volumes much lower than 2017. The resulting wines are restrained and show finesse and elegance rather than power. They show varietal typicity, are balanced fresh and have modest alcohols. Reds are generally medium bodied, and with typical FLX crunchy red fruit.
The full story of the 2018 is being written in tanks and barrels and has yet to be revealed. January and February will see the emergence of many FLX ´ wines and early whites. Reds must complete secondary malolactic fermentation.
Initial signs are that a challenging vintage in the FLX has been met with determination and success.
This report was compiled with contribution from Cornell’s Finger Lakes Grape Program, extensive tastings, and from commentaries obtained from members of the Finger Lakes Wine Alliance producers and winemakers.
The 2018 vintage assessment will be updated as the wines from the 2018 vintage emerge.